Friday, March 23, 2012

Lost Loves

I finally got around to seeing Lost Loves, a by-now legendary Cambodian film detailing the horrors of the Pol Pot years, directed by Chhay Bora.
There were only a few of us in the cinema, most others having opted to go and see John Carter in 3D instead. I guess that says someting about taste and the collective memory in 21st century Cambodia.
It is a dramatised account of one woman's experiences during the Khmer Rouge years, and it was quite a gripping and emotional film. I knew I was in for trouble when I started to get teary in the first two minutes.
It is well-made and the subtitles are mostly excellent, and it is a fantastic film to watch if you don't know much about this period in Cambodian history. Of course, for those who know and love Cambodia there can sometimes be a bit of  "Pol Pot Years" fatigue, as most of what is presented to foreigners about Cambodia is about this period. There seems to be a concerted effort to keep this film before the public eye, as it is subtitled in English (none of the Cambodian romantic comedies or horror films I go to see are) and it continues to be shown at the major cinemas, despite the less-than-impressive audiences. I saw it at the Sorya Mall, and there fewer than 8 of us in the audience - more on that later.
Stylistically, the film obviously owes a debt to the Indian soap operas that are enormously popular in Cambodia right now. The dramatic panning in on faces twisted by emotion, the slow-mo replays of painful events, the pans across sad family members' faces - all of these things are instantly recognisable from my evening TV viewing with friends. That is not to say that it is in any way an unsophisticated film - on the contrary, I was impresed by its emotional restraint and its simplicity. The script is very well done, and it doesn't seem to run a moment too long.
The film is based on the director's mother-in-law's real-life story, and it is this premise in real life which renders it all the more emotionally engaging. I am not going to indulge in spoilers here, but let me just say that the present-day resolution at the end of the film is beautifully handled and quite effectively emotional.
The performances are also impressive. Sophisticated, reserved and ultimately highly representative of the moods and emotions I witness among the Cambodian people around me every day, each was thoroughly believable. My only gripe was that, over the four year period the film covers, the children never age. I know this is small thing, and that I need to suspend some disbelief, but it began to nag at me by the end of the film.
And a word on Cambodian cinema audiences. Despite a little public-service announcement at the begining of each and every film asking people to refrain from texting, talking and telephoning during a film, people talk, text and telephone from the moment they walk in. More than that, they get up and walk around the cinema, often shouting to friends in the back row. You cannot allow this to get to you - any attempt at remonstration will be met with bewilderment. People have come to the movies for a good time, and a good time for them entails the freedom to engage with all modern forms of communication at all times. So, the team of young women who were the only other people present in the cinema with me had a grand old time, shouting, laughing, making and taking calls, leaving to buy snacks and coming back for a quick meander around the auditorium to see if anything had changed in their absence. Resistance is futile.
Even more strangely, at key moments in the film (there is a particularly long sequence of a child dying), these young women wept loudly and heavily, when not 30 seconds before they had been shrieking comments at each other and texting their boyfriends. The cinema is a communal experience in Cambodia, so public expressions of emotion only contribute to the experience.



Wednesday, March 21, 2012

Troublemaker

One of the wonderful contradictions that I love in Cambodia is the twin devotions people display to tradition and to modernity.
So young people are likely to know about old music and traditional Cambodian arts in a way that I have never experienced in Vietnam, but they are also hugely enthusiastic about nightclubbing, hip-hop and all the forms of K-Pop. Cambodians are the biggest K-Pop fans I know, and you can stay abreast of all the latest Korean music just by wondering around some of Phnom Penh's shops and cafes.
The K-Pop song that I am loving the most at the moment is Trouble Maker. It is insanely catchy, with its hokey whistled refrain. Someone at the cafe I am stting in at the moment has set that whistle as their text message alert on their phone, and each time it goes off I get excited.
See for yourself how fabulous it is :-) Be prepared for a strangely violent, and quite sexy, video clip:



Monday, February 6, 2012

Change of Name, Change of Focus

This blog was first established way back in 2009 as a collection point for my thoughts and experiences about Vietnam, containing many things that would eventually go into my first book, Destination Saigon.
That book has, for a long time now, had its own website, which you can see here, and where you can continue to read all sorts of interesting stuff about Vietnamese religion and culture, Vietnam travel advice, the Vietnamese community in Australia and my own interactions with things, people and matters Vietnamese.
I am about to embark on a long trip to Cambodia to finish my second book, which will, as you might already have guessed, be about my love for that country and my many wonderful journeys and connections there.


 



So please join me as I begin to explore more publicly my travels in Cambodia and my engagement in, and fascination with, Cambodian culture in all of its incredible complexity and wonder.
Welcome to my new blog, which is now called A Book About Cambodia.

Hope you enjoy!

Monday, January 30, 2012

Lunar New Year Festival (Cho Tet), Fairfield







I don't know why I go to big, crowded public events anynore.
I am invariably disappointed.
I feel bored and tired before an hour is up, and in this instance my partner was part of the VIP party, so was trapped listening to interminable speeches for two hours or more while I paced around in the mud, increasingly bored.
The once great Cho Tet, the big festival to celebrate the Lunar New Year for the Vietnamese community, has become something of a shambles. The food is ghastly and it's always held too late to be of any truly festive significance. I mean, we know when the Lunar New Year is going to fall for the next 100 years or so. Can the organisers not book ahead to ensure they get the venue at the desired time?
I don't mean to grumble.
The dragon and lion dances were spectacular, really wonderful. They seemed to be the only properly organised parts of the whole event.









Here's some free advice to bring some heart back to this important event:




- Get some good food. Take a look at the much smaller Thai New Year celebrations at Wat Pa Buddharangsee in Minto. They manage to attract an array of truly fantastic food vendors, many of them representatives of iconic restaurants.

- Provide more seating. For some reason the entire under-cover area of the showground was roped off, including the toilet. This could have been hired as an area for people to sit and eat, with tables and chairs. And by the way, the five sad portaloos provided were a disgrace - they were already full at 6.30pm. There are many older people present who would hang around longer and spend more money if they could relax. As it is they couldn't get away quickly enough - the whole thing is dreadfully uncomfortable and physically taxing.

- Bring the community back. Allow the festival to reflect some of the colour and diversity of the Vietnamese community. The Buddhist temples, the Cao Dai groups - all should have some sort of presence there. Perhaps a tent for talks, lectures and cultural displays? People come for this sort of thing, not kiosks promoting the local clubs. In fact, why don't the local clubs sponsor such a tent rather than just handing out balloons and cardboard visors?

- Do something about the ghastly opening ceremony. Two hours + of speeches by dubious VIPs is simply unforgiveable in the 21st century. A neat half-hour of ceremonies is ample (indeed, generous), and then bring on the singing and dancing that people really enjoy. NO MORE SPEECHES.

With a bit of imagination and energy this yearly event has enormous potential to become a truly important part of the Australian cultural calendar. As it is, it's a disaster.






Saturday, January 21, 2012

Tet! Lunar New Year decorations at our local temple




Our nearby temple is Chua Minh Giac, and one of the resident monks is a dab hand at decoration.




Every year he goes all out to create some elaborate themed gardens and displays for visitors who come over the Lunar New Year period.



He has excelled himself this year.













Details:

Minh Giac Vietnamese Buddhist Temple
42 St. John's Rd
Cabramatta
(The temple is about a 15 minute walk from Cabramatta station)
Open 7am - 8.30pm
All welcome - enter the main hall via the driveway to the left of the house. If the roller-doors of the main temple aren't up,  you can gain access via the doorway at the left of the complex at the back.
Shoes need to be removed before entering.



Walter Mason's book Destination Saigon: Adventures in Vietnam (Allen & Unwin) was voted one of the 10 best travel books of 2010 by The Sydney Morning Herald.
It is available as a paperback and e-book from all good booksellers and on-line.






















Thursday, January 5, 2012

Buddhist Prayer Guide at Cabramatta Vegetarian Restaurant


The vegetarian restaurants and supermarkets in Cabramatta, and many of the herbalists, all feature a little stand that gives out free Buddhist media - books, pictures, CDs, DVDs etc. The things are almost always in Vietnamese, but sometimes there is material in English, so they are always worth checking out.
This material is there for free distribution, so help yourself, if you are interested.
This is a laminated A4 poster which offers a program of chanting for the lay Buddhist.



Where?
Happy Vegan
Shop 11, Belvedere Arcade
66-68 John St
Cabramatta NSW

Tuesday, January 3, 2012

The Teo Chiew Centre in Cabramatta


An under-utilised but wonderfully picturesque piece of orientalist architecture in Cabramatta, stuck between the Baptist and Catholic churches.
As viewed from Cabra-Vale Park.
I have written about the ubiquity of the Teo Chiew elsewhere.